Cars and Tuning

AUDIO CABLES
It has been said and written about how the quality of cabling can affect the sound of a system and it is true. Not you going to recommend that you spend a fortune, but the difference between a preinstallation speaker wire and cable little more of a Euro metro is perfectly audible. Therefore, as long as you advise adecuéis quality cabling to the level of your audio system.
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CABLES FOR THE INSTALLATION OF A CAR AUDIO

Normally, will be reduced to three specific types that refer speaker, signal, and power or running (though really all leading electricity). There are also others such as the antenna cable, hoses to the shipper, video cables and browsers and of course the wiring of the car itself. It starts with the first.

SPEAKER OF THE CABLE
The speaker cable is responsible for transporting the flow of departures from our speaker amplifier or source to the speaker terminals. Most often parallel, two wires of different color or design “hooked” between them.

There are hundreds of models on the market and of course, each presents its quality. However, you must know that the vast majority of them are manufactured with the same technology in the same factory, varying only the external appearance. Do not deceive you leave. Since my knowledge in electronics are superfluous, I can not defend the positions of each design technology. What if I can say is that I need a speaker cable when you install. The gauge or section of the driver (not the case) is the first factor and determined by the number of watts that circulated by him, if distinct rather than copper is composed of other materials s / s. I also have in mind that the journey take place at the facility to see if its thickness will be allowed (curves, angles, recesses, etc.). For tweeters, the means and serious power to 150 watts, is usually used sections 1 , 5 to 2.5 m / m square depending on the brand in question. The second factor is the number of threads that make up the driver (personally, the more the better), which will be responsible for granting greater elasticity to the cable. Free oxygen in their development (but real) and I guarantee the absence of rust or mildew on the pipes. With twisteados braided well conducted (technology that has a direct impact on the resistance and inductancía of transmission). The sleeves or covers must be very flexible and thin enough (I love silicone, but not slip by corners), which clearly mark the difference between the positive and negative.

If the price is “decent” elegiré which is unidirectional (as certain tires) and alloy noble metals and / or minerals. If the vehicle is prone to noise, there are braided cables with well-studied (although his outward appearance does not feel that way) and even shielded.

For wiring subwoofer, I am less demanding and I concentrate mainly on the section (thickness) of 4 m / m or more and Protection of the same. Today, we have so many models to choose which features exposed can even choose the color that most closely integrates to the vehicle or other aesthetic aspects. Lastly prices are the most varied, but from € 1.10 for a section of 2 m / m, we can speak of a cable quality.
The connectors for these wires correspond to their terminations and include more than faston known and less widely used as bananas connection, the pins and forks, all in different sizes and gauges, with and without case. In short, everything you need to ensure your wires to the speakers.

CABLES FOR SIGNAL
The signal cable is one that normally call RCA cable (for their connectors) and coaxial (by design), since this is how often, with a cord inside a mesh exterior positive and negative. With the exception of systems that can operate with balanced cable, in which case they are two drivers involved in a central mesh exterior.

Its mission is to bring “low-flow” (signal) from source to amplification. It is with this cable with which never “racaneo”, as it is the most prone to electromagnetic influences of their environment and, therefore, where can more easily enter the parasitic noise (alternator, intermittent, relays, etc..). Therefore my minimum requirements are: that is kind of hose and not parallel with a minimum outer diameter of 5.5 mm (including coverage or case). Its core conductor multi (positive), and a section is not too small. If copper is free of oxygen and Cover positive Teflon (remains sealed when welding the terminal) identified by color. The (or shields) about this first case it is composed of several layers of different materials (aluminum and the like). The mass or negative, I prefer the kind of mesh instead of rolling outside (for questioning in connection reliability), good conductivity and also shielded. Its coverage based abroad or thick and not sliding. Finally, good flexibility to allow closed angles along the way. If your price is around € 7 subway (two channels), it is enough.

The conexionados this wiring is carried by the well-known RCA, we purchased separately, adapting well, the long exact welding cable and the terminal ourselves, or already mounted directly into the wiring, the work of the evitándonos Weld, if we have no idea. In this second system, the manufacturers have taken into account, providing many different measures, to avoid having to wrap wires under the carpet. Both cable and RCA.

I would recommend those RCA including more than four cuts pressure (six or eight), or other types who “embrace” the female terminal, where a screw press outside. There are other models that incorporate a pier, which like coverage prevented reinforcement, in the case of very sharp angles, the cable was deformed at the exit of the RCA. As for the diversity of these, we find the following changes: males and females straight and virtually any combination of them. Finally, a sample of the most unimaginable, both in terms of colors as stainless steel, gold and platinum lately. What you want.

POWER CABLES
I am tired of repeating the importance of this driver, both positive and the negative. Some “installers”, a stage think that feed power directly from the relay box of the car is enough. Do not be mislead never ceases in this aspect, because the integrity of the car is at risk. No matter how “fat” that is the cable that connects into the phase power cable that carries the current from the battery to the relay box, rarely exceeds 8 mm cross section, which has been adjusted for consumption the accessories of the vehicle itself, plus some extra accessory, no higher than 10 or 15 amps, which rarely feed into a stage of conventional power. Imagine the consequences if it connects several units. Demand for greater capacity power cable that can not endure, and may even lead to a warming burn. In short, this cable conectad provided directly to the battery. From a technical point of view, to understand what, you just one example: the power cord (flow) is similar to pipe fuel pump of a gasoline engine explosion by many horses to develop this engine (Watt) , not seize ever, if not reaching enough gasoline (power) to do so. Clearly, no?. Knowing all this, my demands are that his section is appropriate to use the power, nor more nor less. Coverage thick and flexible materials must be prepared to cope with the vagaries of weather, temperature of the engine and continuous friction. The multi-driver (for more flexibility) and multiple twiestado, ie the diameter end is composed of seven nuclei (six external and one central), and each of seven more nuclei, and so on. Of course, free oxygen. The color will be clearly identifying both the positive and the negative and is thankful that owns brands action (each x cm) printed, which will help us to verify the correct distances from their connections.

As for accessories that can be installed on the power cord, are very numerous. So for now we will confine ourselves to those who serve only for your connection. First, we have the battery terminal connection, these enable us to ensure that the conductivity of the flow is not limited by corrosion of these, because we can, adquirid bathed in gold or platinum.

It must be said, that there are still people who think that it is equally positive that the negative (in relation to diameter). To this I would remind you that the negative terminal is always lower diameter than the positive, yet they fail to pay attention, because it is so important a negative efficient as a positive (direct current flowing from negative to positive). Not worth € 20 saved by neglecting this aspect. We need to change the two terminals even for aesthetic reasons. There are also plastic or silicone sleeves to protect a possible contact for these terminals, anywhere in the vehicle (very recommended). To connect the power cord to these terminals can be used both systems depending always borne. The first terminals for those who possess a drill that allows the cable is introduced therein fijándolo later through an asparagus Allen (usually) can be added, with the intention of increasing the contact area, some caps also prevent the tip asparagus allen break some of the threads of the driver, causing chisporroteo and desluciendo installation. They are cheap and very practical and may add to clinch the finish, a case that termoretractil shrinks to apply heat, follow the cable and provide a professional finish (also really cheap).

The second system, rests on the terminals possessing fixing screws, designed for mounting terminals ring large section, which look the power cord through the previous system (also here we can use caps described above) and subsequently , are subject to the terminal of the battery. Both systems are adequate, safe and clean.

For the rest of the wires coming out of the battery to supply the basic systems of the vehicle itself can use terminals ring gauge of lower-coated plastic case pluses: their price and a shorter installation (for prevent the terminal of the battery look like an “artichoke” cable).

INSTALLATION OF SPEAKERS

Important: if the vehicle is new query terms of the security or in the dealership where they bought the car.
Installing speakers in the car.

1) Choosing the appropriate place for the front speakers, without impede any mecanismo.A sometimes come prepared factory.
Step 1
2) Remove carefully the door panel and mark and then make holes where they will be the speaker.
Step 2

3) Present and mount the speaker with accessories provided by verifying that does not interfere with any mechanism.
Step 3
4) End of arming completely sure that the panel is securely fixed so that there are no vibrations.
Step 4

5) Choose the lunette place in the back where they put the speakers. Sometimes marked comes from the factory.
Step 5
6) Check and make cuts neatly on the back panel where the speakers will be fixed.
Step 6

7) Make the necessary holes for screws and if necessary to immerse the lunette properly to support the speaker.
It is very important before cutting measure correctly.
Step 7
Limar cuidadozamente and remove any chip that can be, but it certainly is pasted to the loudspeaker dañándolo.
Step 8

9) Present and place the speaker attachment fittings provided.
Step 9
10) Ensure that are firmly fixed and that the connecting cables are not under pressure, which could cause a short circuit.

Final happy

11) Finally placing bars and give the final details of termination.
Now puedés enjoy listening to your stereo.
But maybe the best thing is that you installed yourself.